Venice, Italy (She Said)

Venice was a bit depressing during the day and totally beautiful at night. Unfortunately, we were having some camera trouble (forgot it one day, night time pictures were not cooperating so much), so most of the pictures we have are all from one day. This one is blurry, but it covers up the dirty rot and makes it look bustling and quiet at the same time. The reality of 80 gondolas tied up like a cabstand while the gondoliers talk on the cellphones, smoke cigarettes, and wear American sneakers and designer sunglasses waiting for tourists to pay them tons of money for a ride is completely obscured as well.We didn't go on a gondola ride per se, although we did ride across the canal on one for fifty cents apeice after going to the Rialto Market one morning. It was kind of like a huge canoe packed with about 20 people and a dog. Way more fun (and dangerous feeling) than spending a dinner's worth on a private ride.

The night time was the most beautiful. Everything was lit up, and even what looked like a normal apartment during the day at night revealed itself to be a gorgeous home with moulded stucco ceilings and frescoed walls. The trip down the Grand Canal on the Vaporetto was my favorite, keeping an eye out for fancy chandeleirs and dragging Kevin's attention from one beautiful peek to the next. You could see the waves lapping over the porch/docks of the old palaces (now mostly art galleries it seemed) and picture each one being a home. **Please note, all of my palace in the golden age of Venice dreaming came straight off of reading a historical fiction romance about the exploits of a Venitian courtesan and her faithful dwarf that I picked up at the B&B in Varenna and read the whole time down on the train because I need to share the Kindle.**

We found after walking around for a while that it was fun to find an old couple that clearly lived there, and then just follow them around to see what they were up to. We were lead all through random back streets and lots of construction sights, then discreetly watched them to normal Venetian things like pack the groceries into the motor boat tied up in the canal. We did a lot of wandering, and most of it was very enjoyable, even a little bit romantic. Except for the terrifying gypsy at the end of Via Paradiso. We found the leaning tower of Venice, and a cool boat that later turned into a floating fruit and veggie market

Although there are no pictures (I swear I took some, just can't find them anywhere) we spent some time in St. Mark's square, went to the Basilica, and went to the Doge's Palace. We spent most of one day at the palace, actually, wandering around looking at the inner workings of the Venitian state, and then did the Secret Itineraries tour. The tour was great, we got to see all sorts of secret stuff, and I'm not telling you what it was. **Cough** Cassanova **Cough**

Most of the nights, we bar-hopped, snacking on the little nibbles all the bars had available for a Euro or two: meatballs, fried anchovies, calamari, grilled vegetables, and bruchetta were all abundant, as well as cheap wine and cocktails. Although the commie fest won hands down for vibe and cheapness, these bars were a great place to start the night and make an inexpensive pizza filling enough for dinner on at least one occasion.

I think for all the doubts (and all the tourists, and all the catering to tourists, and all the dirt) we both fell in love with Venice and would go back any time. We still have a lot to do there, and I'm glad I have the perfect person to do it with.