Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy (September 6-8)

After Venice we both realized we were a little sightseed out and neeeded a break. We had a great time in Vernazza (a.k.a. Rick Steves Land, seriously, he probably owns it. If you can walk 5 feet without seeing someone walking around carrying Rick Steves Italy 2009, it's because it's 2010 and they have that one. We had one person accost us and ask if we went to see the Canoli brothers for breakfast: "Didn't you read Rick?"). Seriously, though, it has been one of our favorite places. It had crystal clear cool deep water, beautiful hills, good food, inexpensive and comfortable lodging, and lots and lots of relaxation. Strangely, it almost reminded me of home. I think it was just the ocean and the tourists though, because focaccia at home is nowhere near as good as this was. I ate nothing but plain focaccia for an entire day, every meal one day.

Apparently you can hike in Cinque Terra. I say apparently, because we did not. After the Varenna Odessey to the Castle, we decided we deserved to not have to hike. Also there was a wildfire raging on the other side of the hill, causing the "easy" hiking trail to be closed. The "difficult" trail went all the way around to the point of land you see in the distance. Uphill. It was 80 degrees out, the water was fine, and we are not German. Instead we walked to the trailhead, got this beautiful picture, and took the opportunity spend the rest of the day swimming right at the curve of the breakwater here, betwen the boats and where it curves in was the popular swimming/diving spot, with 15 foot deep water, pretty fish and huge under water boulders, and lots of Italian kids doing cannonballs 3 at a time.
















Kevin took this of himself. I'm not kidding. Mini Tripod rocks my world. He was next to me one second, didn't say a word, then hopped up and jumped in with a huge smile. After he popped his head up he yelled "Did it work?". Yup. It worked.
















Then he took one of me. Far less exciting.

One night we had a romantic Cliff Top dinner at Sunset.
















Another night we went to a few of the local markets and put together a feast of fresh mozzarella, pesto, spicy salami, and sundried tomatoes, all on top of more delicious focaccia. Picture is blurry because one of us touched the lense on the camera. Nothing to do with the wine. Promise.

This was the view from our room. We liked waking up here. Definitely the prettiest view we've had so far.
















It was also very convenient for doing laundry (I hid all my panties on the inside of all the clothes) . We hung out at "the pool" most of the day, ocasionally checking to make sure our clothes weren't blowing down the street.
















See, we have other people take pictures of us, too. This is the town going up the hill behind the harbor.


Another gorgeous sunset in Vernazza. . . You can't really tell, but the smoke from the fire made for beautiful sunsets every night. Great colors. Also the Indiana Jones look alike fire planes dipping in to the ocean to douse the flames every few minutes were very exciting. Almost as exciting as the number of old men in Speedos. And again, mini-tripod rocks my world.

Rainy Day Fun in Ancient Rome

Don't feel bad for us that it rained on the day we went to see the Colosseum, Forum, and Palatine Hill. We had fun with our umbrellas all day.

















At first we thought we should keep them out of the pictures and hide the rain. It instead resulted in psycho-cheerleader looking photos.

















So we let them in.

















We laughed when the sprinklers were turned on the rain on top of the Palatine Hill. Sprinklers on in the rain? Come on Rome. My Southern Californian water scarcity sensitivity is offended. Good job on the soaking of the tour groups though - they should watch where they are going, not just the bobbing umbrella.

One thing we have been laughing at all through Italy are the hordes of people being lead around by a tour guide holding aloft an unspread retractable umbrella. It hasn't been raining anywhere until recently. Today, people with their umbrellas up followed wet tour guides holding their umbrellas up, but not spread. Otherwise their groups would be lost. Others resorted to holding their umbrella as well as a stick with a glove on it. Priceless. Some just looked even sillier wearing a poncho and holding up their umbrellas.
















Kevin gave me a tour of the Arch of Constantine and the Circus Maximus.

















I gave him a tour of the Colosseum.



And I told you I'd get you back, sucker.

Venice, Italy (She Said)

Venice was a bit depressing during the day and totally beautiful at night. Unfortunately, we were having some camera trouble (forgot it one day, night time pictures were not cooperating so much), so most of the pictures we have are all from one day. This one is blurry, but it covers up the dirty rot and makes it look bustling and quiet at the same time. The reality of 80 gondolas tied up like a cabstand while the gondoliers talk on the cellphones, smoke cigarettes, and wear American sneakers and designer sunglasses waiting for tourists to pay them tons of money for a ride is completely obscured as well.We didn't go on a gondola ride per se, although we did ride across the canal on one for fifty cents apeice after going to the Rialto Market one morning. It was kind of like a huge canoe packed with about 20 people and a dog. Way more fun (and dangerous feeling) than spending a dinner's worth on a private ride.

The night time was the most beautiful. Everything was lit up, and even what looked like a normal apartment during the day at night revealed itself to be a gorgeous home with moulded stucco ceilings and frescoed walls. The trip down the Grand Canal on the Vaporetto was my favorite, keeping an eye out for fancy chandeleirs and dragging Kevin's attention from one beautiful peek to the next. You could see the waves lapping over the porch/docks of the old palaces (now mostly art galleries it seemed) and picture each one being a home. **Please note, all of my palace in the golden age of Venice dreaming came straight off of reading a historical fiction romance about the exploits of a Venitian courtesan and her faithful dwarf that I picked up at the B&B in Varenna and read the whole time down on the train because I need to share the Kindle.**

We found after walking around for a while that it was fun to find an old couple that clearly lived there, and then just follow them around to see what they were up to. We were lead all through random back streets and lots of construction sights, then discreetly watched them to normal Venetian things like pack the groceries into the motor boat tied up in the canal. We did a lot of wandering, and most of it was very enjoyable, even a little bit romantic. Except for the terrifying gypsy at the end of Via Paradiso. We found the leaning tower of Venice, and a cool boat that later turned into a floating fruit and veggie market

Although there are no pictures (I swear I took some, just can't find them anywhere) we spent some time in St. Mark's square, went to the Basilica, and went to the Doge's Palace. We spent most of one day at the palace, actually, wandering around looking at the inner workings of the Venitian state, and then did the Secret Itineraries tour. The tour was great, we got to see all sorts of secret stuff, and I'm not telling you what it was. **Cough** Cassanova **Cough**

Most of the nights, we bar-hopped, snacking on the little nibbles all the bars had available for a Euro or two: meatballs, fried anchovies, calamari, grilled vegetables, and bruchetta were all abundant, as well as cheap wine and cocktails. Although the commie fest won hands down for vibe and cheapness, these bars were a great place to start the night and make an inexpensive pizza filling enough for dinner on at least one occasion.

I think for all the doubts (and all the tourists, and all the catering to tourists, and all the dirt) we both fell in love with Venice and would go back any time. We still have a lot to do there, and I'm glad I have the perfect person to do it with.

Dedication to her Craft

Ali doesn't want me to post these, but she's sleeping in and I need to clear the pictures out.

If you look through our pictures, you'll notice we don't have a ton of pictures of ourselves. Neither one of us really likes to ask other people to take pictures of us unless the circumstances really call for it. For less important things that we still want pictures of we (mostly Ali) have become quite proficient at alternative photo methods.

First, Ali is really good at the hold out the camera with the right hand and snap pictures approach.

But for larger scale pictures, that just doesn't work.

When you want to get in from of the Leaning Tower for example:


Or when you want to take a picture in Boston but don't want to seem too touristy by asking:



Fortunately, before our trip to Mexico last year, my dad was kind enough to give us his flexible mini-tripod that can stand almost anywhere to take pictures. Combine that with the ten second timer and you can take a picture We've rested it on walls, trashcans, and the ground.

Fortunately, Ali is extremely dedicated to the artistry involved in the mini-tripod:



That's how you get a picture of us in front of the Leaning Tower.

Or a picture of the entire bell tower in Florence.



Or sunset pictures in Vernazza


...even if like the one above there are about a dozen American tourists around laughing at us as we run back and forth for five minutes trying to get the right picture, any of whom could have easily taken the picture if we had just asked. Sometimes the pictures come out off centered or we don't get the timer right, but at least it's fun.

Venice, Italy (September 1-4) (He Said)

At the beginning of September, we made it to Venice. I had been looking forward to Venice the entire trip. I had heard so many different things I really didn't know what to think: I love Venice, I hate Venice, Venice smells, Venice is like Disneyland, etc. After our three nights there, I think we'd both agree that neither one of those sentiments is exactly wrong. It was dirty, over-touristed, and overwhelming at times, but in general we both really enjoyed it. It was definitely different than the other destinations we have been to thus far, but that's probably unsurprising. We didn't go out to big dinners because there seemed to be other things worth doing and we didn't see all of the sights because walking around was just as much fun.

Perhaps the most interesting part of our three night trip was our constant presence at CommieFest 2009 outside of the Venice fish market. It was about a two week event. I'm not sure what was being said or what they hoped to achieve, but they did sell cheap food and E1.50 very, very large glasses of wine which we took to a little dock on the side of the Grand Canal to drink with the local cool kids arriving by motor boat who also had no qualms about pretending to be Commies in exchange for cheap wine. Alas, I ended my political career for 3 euros of wine.



Erin and Ryan suggested that we go to Piazza Santa Margherita and get some pizza and enjoy the scene. We did that our second night there and went back again the last night. We split some greasy pizza on a bench which seemed to be what most of the other people were doing.



We ventured to a gelato place recommended in one of our books (Gelato Alaska). Here is Ali with a scoop of stracciotella and a scoop of Orange-Arugala.



As was suggested by professionals (my grandparents) and amateurs (Rick Steves), we took a cruise down the Vaporetto #1 at night to see the sights. Given the darkness and the moving, none of these picutres came out, but here is Ali enjoying the cruise.



A lot of the other things we saw weren't photographed (or are being saved for Ali's post (which is sure to be awesome (she made me say that))), but we also did a tour of the Doge's Palace, St. Mark's, and a trip to Murano to see hand blown glass (Ali's idea). We saved a lot of the museum/artsy stuff for another trip.

We also passed the Bridge of Sighs numerous times. We crossed the bridge during our tour of the Doges Palace, but you really don't get the full impact of the sight unless you see it from the outside:



As anybody who has been to Venice knows, the Bridge of Sighs is named because every remaining Venetian resident sighs as they pass it lamenting what has become of their city.

Between getting lost and pretending to be Reds for a couple of nights, I think we both found Venice a lively, enjoyable city. I understand why some people don't enjoy it. It's certainly overwhelming and packed with tourists. But it was also extremely quiet outside of the tourist areas and all the locals that passed seemed to know each other. I'd happily go back again.

Rome, Italy

We finally made it to Rome (although finally is all relative since it's hard to believe it's all gone so quickly). Above is the view from our apartment in Trastevere (Apartment 19. Highly recommended). I think we are both excited to settle down for a week, spread out in an apartment, have easy access to a kitchen, and take our time to see the sights. Any suggestions are welcome. So far, we wandered around Trastevere this afternoon, and took a peek at a few local sights and restaurants. Tomorrow night we are headed to the Vatican Museum and will probably try to catch a soccer game Sunday night. Tonight it's a pizza and some relaxation/planning for the week.

Bologna, Italy (September 4-6)

We took one picture in Bologna:






















We went to Bologna basically for one reason: food. We had heard it was widely regarded even in Italia as the best food around. They are most famous for their ragu (in the picture above, although the picture does not do it justice). What they call ragu, we know as Bolognese sauce. Rich red meat sauce, seasoned just right, it was delicious everywhere. We both ordered it in various forms on back to back nights. Was it the best food we've had here? I think we both agree it was not. But it was very good.

Bologna's main square was pretty big and full of activity, including a gay rights rally and a marathon. There was a University near by, so there were young people everywhere, as well as a lot of teenagers. The main street leading to the square was a major shopping area and very busy all day and night.

Bologna is also the fist place we noticed an important trend. If you are a cool 15 year old girl in Italy, your favorite store is Foot Locker. You and all your friends pick out matching pairs of E150 throwback high top sneakers (Nike, Reebok, etc.) with neon laces and parade all over with them holding hands. We have since seen this trend in the other big cities. (Side note, Foot Locker is the one store we have seen in every single city other than Varenna and Vernazza. I had no idea it was so popular internationally because nobody I know has been to one in the states in about 10 years. Well played Foot Locker.)

The lack of anything else to do in Bologna allowed us to take a day trip to nearby Ravenna which is famous for its 1500 year old churches and impressive mosaics. The mosaics were indeed impressive. Sadly, no pictures, some places you couldn't take any, and others just didn't come out right with the light. The other fantastic part about Ravenna is that it is the place to eat piadini. A piadina is very simple and amazingly good. Soft flatbread warmed up, meat, cheese, and other toppings popped in, and then fold the bread up. They made a perfect lunch on the run or you could probably class it up with a glass of wine and a sidewalk table.

Clearly this was not the most photogenic part of our trip, but it was enjoyable and the mosaics and piadini combined with ragu probably made it worth it.

Minor Inconveniences (Varenna, Lake Como - August 30)

Obviously when you go some place new you expect quirky differences and minor inconveniences. Frequently, these happen in the difference between how sinks and bathrooms work. Sometimes it's as minor as the inclusion of the bidet or the lack of paper towels.

However, one European difference, combined with a few glasses of wine, has become my arch nemesis: the foot pedal sink. You go up to it, it looks innocuous enough. Hey, there's no other way to turn this on, it's probably automatic even though there's no visible sensor. Or maybe not. Ah, there's the foot pedal. And if you aren't gentle enough...

















Well you run back to the table and delay a few minutes.

Have Fun Storming the Castle!, Lake Como (August 30

Varenna's main "sight" is the ruined medieval castle nearby. Sure, it looks innocuous enough, a typical look with ladies dressed in gowns and men dressed in tights. Sometimes things so strange happen they merit their own story. By the time we left the Castle of Vezio on the top of the hill in Varenna, I was legitimately laughing out of sheer confusion.

We started making the trek up the hill both expecting sensational views of Lake Como. It was a much longer, steeper trek than we expected. You might notice the sign says 15 minutes on foot. That is a lie. it's more like 30 - 35, straight uphill on a little cobblestone path/stairs.
I didn't think it was too bad.
Ali disagreed.


She was willing to take another (happy) picture after a few minutes rest.

When we arrived at the top, we weren't disappointed. Various parts of the grounds had views of the lake from every angle just as the sun was setting.





But things felt like they might be a little bit off. At the entrance to the grounds, there was an owl. I'm still not sure why. An unofficial mascot perhaps?



Alas, while expansive views of what some people have called the most beautiful place on Earth should be enough to attract hordes of tourists, the real draw for most people appears to be the Castle's daily falconry exhibits.



Ali was extremely intrigued by the "falconer's" exhibition...until she realized she didn't speak Italian and had no idea what the guy was saying. This guy kept just picking up one of the 10ish birds, unhooking them, saying something about them, then disappearing down the hill only to return without the bird. It was slightly confusing. I think at some point they were supposed to return back after he called them...or something like that. The Italian tourists were enthralled and completely oblivious to the views all around them. The big falcon kept jumping in my direction in a very threatening/sad manner - he was tied by both feet to the ground with about 2 1/2 feet of chain.



After we realized it would be a while before the hawks returned and potentially did something unpredictable or dangerous, we decided to climb the tower that still rests in the middle of the castle. The views from the top were perhaps the best of the day.




And they gave us a chance to take a timed-photograph of ourselves with the phone dangling from a screw in the wall. Nobody was around to take our picture because falconry was still going on.



But of course, the castle wouldn't be complete with just pretty views. To keep things interesting, the climb was on a series of barely stable wooden steps that led Ali to legitimately fear for her life.



And of course, what tower in the middle of a castle famous for falconry exhibits would be complete without a fossil museum to educate the public about the lariosauro?



That was just hanging in one of the rooms in the tower. The website tells me that the lariosauro is "a middle-sized fossil reptile genus ascribed to the Saupterigians, an extinct group of aquatic reptiles." However, the website doesn't tell me exactly why there is a museum for it in a tower in a castle on the top of a hill. Perhaps it was found in the castle? Perhaps it once ruled over the town from the castle with an iron fist? Maybe the falcons were bred to defeat the lariosauro? It is all a mystery. Once you got into the castle, there were no descriptions of anything.

All this was enough to leave me confused and amused. But the castle was put over the top by the random art exhibition which involved plaster molds of human and ghost like figures all over the castle.



I really can't do justice to the weirdness of the whole thing. Especially considering the views alone were worth the admission. It's like getting a falconry show, fossil museum, and postmodern paper-machet exhibit for free!

Alas, then it was time to leave.

The castle is the castle-like icon in the middle of the map above. We came up by taking the path on the left which was by no means a road, but was wide and filled with steps. We decided to take the other road down the hill. The one that leaves the castle on the right. The one that looks like all the other roads on the map. After spending about 20 minutes looking for said road, we realized we had found it.



The "road" on the map is in fact an 8 inch wide path barely big enough for one person worn through plants and weeds and occasionally passing through what appeared to be people's backyards.



Fortunately the view was worth it. The way down was steeper than the way up had been, and significantly more difficult. We traipsed down tall steps, around what I was sure was poison ivy, past random shrines to the Virgin Mary, through a terraced olive grove, finally ending up at a random hotel that had a funicular and a killer view. We ended the day checking out the monastery gardens and villa described in the last post.

Overall, I give it two thumbs up. If you go to Varenna and don't go see the prehistoric dinosaur fossil, falconry, art exhibit Renaissance castle, you really haven't been to Varenna at all.